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WEST RIDE x CONNERS SEWING FACTORY Dream denim that goes beyond replicas

by May club 30 Mar 2020 0 Comments

Whether you are a serious denim enthusiast or a vintage collector, you should all know something about CONNERS SEWING FACTORY (CSF). Only CSF can produce top-grade replica denim that is indistinguishable even if you put the original vintage pieces together! Check out our introduction!


Forty Niner's, a store located in Shiga, Japan, has a sewing factory called CONNERS SEWING FACTORY (CSF), which was founded by Mr. Noriaki Konaka in 2013 and specializes in producing its own brand of denim clothing. The factory has the most complete variety of antique sewing machines, including UNION SPECIAL and SINGER, which are well-known to vintage players, with a total of 450 pieces in museum-level collections, and each antique machine was collected by Mr. Xiaozhong from all over the world. , a precious asset that is carefully repaired and maintained, and actually invested in the production of the product.

Since existing antique machines are quite rare, not to mention those in good condition, even those in poor condition are very expensive on the market. Collecting complete equipment requires not only time and money, but also full enthusiasm! Thanks to Mr. Xiaozhong’s persistence, CSF can be said to be the largest in the world.

Since his parents were engaged in the sewing industry, Mr. Xiaozhong began to learn the operating skills and knowledge of various loom equipment in middle school. When he was young, he was extremely enthusiastic about Levi's original denim clothing and came into contact with hundreds of antiques. The original product, coupled with his rich sewing experience, allowed him to understand the background of denim production at that time from a professional perspective of "production".

"Not only the sewing technology and appearance details of the era, but also the production environment of the time must be completely reproduced to show the true appearance of the original product." In order to completely reproduce the production technology and environment of the original product, Mr. Kozaka He will operate multiple antique machines based on the background and different details of the era, and develop denim fabrics that are closest to the uniqueness of that era!

Even in Okayama, Japan, which is the holy land of replica denim, most factories only use new machines or mix in one or two antique machines to try to "reproduce" the appearance of the original products, while CSF is based on small Mr. Zhong's passion for denim has led to the creation of the ultimate production factory based on the "real original sewing performance".

Mr. Xiao Zhong, who loves antique denim too much, carefully studied the sewing sequence, specifications, technology and other information in order to realize the details of the production background. From the cutting, sewing to completion of the fabric, he operated antique machines one by one. A carefully crafted "work"! Generally speaking, segmented production and repeating the same work process can optimize efficiency, but Mr. Xiaozhong refused to cut a large number of identical pieces of the same size at one time, insisting that each item be started from scratch and completed in one go with full concentration. .

In addition, folds in fabric such as back pockets are usually ironed before sewing. In addition to being flatter and easier to sew, even unskilled sewing workers can sew more smoothly. In modern times, It’s common knowledge in the sewing industry. However, Mr. Kozaka believes that in the old days when irons were not used, production could only be done by hand folding and sewing. This technique creates a subtle concave and convex feeling in the sewing parts, which is an important key to showing the unique color fade of the original product! Therefore, in order to reproduce the unique "airy feeling" of the original product, in addition to the most advanced sewing equipment, we must also rely on Mr. Kozaka's "hand folding sewing" skills.

The sewing skills of not using an iron to fix, not making marks on the cut pieces, and operating the machine to sew while folding by hand are quite rare in modern times. Without deep experience accumulation, it will definitely lead to a very high error rate, not to mention that CSF uses Mr. Xiaozhong is probably the only one who can sew the antique machines that are in relatively unstable condition and still sew smoothly under such extremely difficult production requirements. Therefore, when Mr. Xiaozhong brought the antique loom to everyone and completed a single product step by step, the onlookers were amazed!

After the technology and equipment reached the background of the antique denim era, Mr. Xiaozhong, who pursued perfection, began to focus on production materials, including original cotton threads made in the United States and dyed in Japan, the highest grade Japanese selvage denim fabric, and All kinds of hardware parts, etc., are specially customized and developed in order to show the true style of the original antique products regardless of cost!

Even though he is already at the top of the industry, he continues to collect and use more antique looms. Even during his breaks, he is always thinking about things related to denim sewing. He continues to improve himself every day and pursues more perfect original products. way to reproduce. The ultimate denim clothes made by Mr. Xiao Zhong who insists on perfection, no wonder it is difficult to distinguish them even if they are placed next to the original vintage clothes!

President Nakai, the owner of West Ride, started his business by opening a vintage shop, and he is also a senior person whom Mr. Kozaka respects. Forty Niner's originally sold West Ride, and the relationship between them is quite close. As we mentioned before, President Nakai himself loves vintage clothes and antique motorcycles, and Mr. Konaka’s insistence on antique denim and vintage sewing machines attracted Mr. Nakai. Whether it was antique sewing machines or old cars, both Facing the fate of being eliminated by the tide of the times, only by adhering to enthusiasm can its life continue.

West Ride started the project of "THE ORIGINAL" three years ago. It was produced by Mr. Kozaka of CSF. It includes the earliest 1948 series, 1955 series and the 1945 of Phantom Zuo Aya, all of which strive to transcend the scope of reproduction. Towards the ultimate status beyond reproduction, achieving the irreplaceable "ORIGINAL".

Since only Mr. Xiaozhong is familiar with the complex use of various sewing machines and has rich knowledge of antique denim, the entire series of THE ORIGINAL items are all produced by Mr. Xiaozhong. The maximum daily output is only The low production capacity of two pieces also makes orderers often have to wait for a year or even longer. In the modern environment that emphasizes maximizing profits, it is completely uneconomical. It can only be said that CSF enthusiastically supports antique denim. persist in!

The earliest released 1948 series is set in the early days of the PANHEAD engine owned by President Nakai’s Harley-Davidson 48FL "SEXUAL REVOLUTION 69". It coincided with the end of the resource rationing system after World War II, and the denim restored various pre-war details. It also laid the foundation for many representative changes. Like the PANHEAD engine, it is a classic in history that connects the past and the future. The single pocket shape of 1948JXX, the pleated design on the front and the adjustment buckle on the back are all made in accordance with the details of the 506XX at that time, which is what we call the Type I denim jacket.

Then in the 1955 series, the denim clothing of the 1950s emphasized the fashionable style of daily wear. The adjustment of the shape and the setting of two-color stitching also developed into the second-generation denim jacket Type 2 with double pockets.

The third collaboration series is set in the 1945s at the end of World War II. It is also the war version of Phantom Zuo Ling that will be open for orders this time. Although there is only a gap of three years from the 1948 series, due to the setting of the war era, the details are not They are completely different. The war version that can be seen in the vintage market is quite expensive, but the two jointly launched is the extremely dreamy and rare Zuo Ling fabric!

CSF is more eager to recreate the true charm of the original than any other brand in the world. This is the main reason why West Ride chose to work with it to launch the ultimate replica! No matter which era it was produced, the details are worth savoring~

Since "THE ORIGINAL" was full of orders but only Mr. Xiaozhong made it, the waiting period for orders was lengthened, so it was decided to separate the ordering of trousers and jackets for the 1945 series. The denim trousers had already been ordered in the previous year. This year, it is the Fantasy Zuo Ling Battle Edition denim jacket. Friends who missed the pants last year must seize the opportunity to customize the jacket.

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